Next Step in the Juke Box Temple.

Here is the next part of what I have done so far to my Temple of El-Viz.

I have included similar pictures just in case. But pretty much it is the basing and vines detailing that I have concentrated on in this step.

I had to sink the Air Filter into the base. To do this I used thick and thin cork tiling sheets. I traced around the filter hose intake, and cut that from the tile. Then used thinner cork sections of tile to fill most of the remaining gap with a more solid base. These were all liberally PVA'ed together as I fitted them into place. I was very rough here as you won't see them anyway.
Next lots of pre-mixed polyfilla from Poundland in a tub.

 I had already made the smaller Jenga steps at the front of the model. The larger section behind I made specifically for this model. To raise them to where I want to fit the door. As you can see. I haven't put that in place yet. Mainly because I am still waiting to find someway or something to build it out of or use for it.

 The Vines are made from hairy string/twine that I undid a bit and teased out. Very fiddly but you can make all sizes of creeper vines from it then. Pva it to the model. This is very messy. I tried not to go over the top with them.

 The Stairs had to be placed on more Cork tiling sheets to get them to where I want to place the door finally. The big open spaces at the top of the stairs and across the grill looking section, will in the end be where the door is fitted and some suitable squares that will look like buttons for the Juke Box will be housed. I am playing with the idea of track listings in "Pictograms" to go next to them.

 The side of the temple. Shorter pieces of hairy string mounted in the same way as the front. The base is still being added to. Painting should follow after the Door and button conundrums are solved.

I hope you like it so far.

Wire Mesh Fencing. Thanks to Libby's Lounge!

I have always wanted a lovely Wire mesh fence for a base or vehicle compound.

Here is the start of mine.

I am going to build as much of this as I can from what Diana at Libby's Lounge sent me.

The mesh is a different gauge of canvas. Diana very nicely sent me an oddment she had laying about.
Jenga blocks, plastic card and staples made the rest.

Looks quite effective.

Once I got going on it. It was very easy to make. Hardest part was bending half a staple and using it to fit the mesh to the Jenga block post. Drill holes in the block about midway up the mesh's height, Cut the mesh with a sharp knife and simply slot it through the eyelet of the little bend of the staple you have super glued into the block.

It's Gonna Be a "Juke Box Temple!" With all apologies to Foreigner!

For my Birthday. My Brother gave me this Mercedes car Air Filter. It didn't work anymore and He wondered if I could use it. I looked and thought. New major feature for Jaffa!

It is made of a very hard Acetate Plastic. Paint didn't really want to stick to it. I cleaned it. Sanded, filed and wire brushed it to death! Trying to give the undercoat something to stick to.

In the end I covered the whole thing in address labels then brushed PVA glue all over it.
That seems to have worked.

Then I realised I couldn't cut the rounded attachment that raised it from a ground basing level off! Without destroying the piece!

So I have begun Embedding it into the base with cork. I will be adding more padding around it. This will strengthen the piece before I get the wallop brush out and paint in earnest.

Stairs are the patent method of Jenga. Adjustments will be made.

It is enormous!

More to be done obviously. I haven't fixed anything in place as yet. But I want to use a lot more colour on the main building than previous Jaffa bits.

More as I get inspired.

Hover Drone Recharge Pillars.

The pillars are made from Jenga blocks of an unusual square nature. Tumbling Tower is what it says on the box. There are 4 in every layer. Rather than 3.

I added LEGO plates of various sizes to the block. After I had covered the block in address labels.

I painted the whole thing Dark Grey. Dry brushed it with a Light Blue Grey. Then used a black ball point to darken the lines of the cement blocks. Dry brushed again in Parchment (A creamy white)

Then painted a Yellow dot on the top panel and added a Zap symbol with the tool I had made.

The last addition was the Red light on top. This came from cheap toy Police cars I had previously purchased and kept bits that may prove useful.

This was another case of the Malcy Mindset! An "Oooh! Look a Squirrel!" Moment.
As you can see. I haven't even started painting my Drones yet!

Made myself a new tool. Simple tool for simple folk!

A bit unusual this one.

I needed something more controllable than a fine brush. My hands are not as steady as they used to be. I wanted something with a fine nib that didn't move or bend as much as a brush does.

So here is what I made.

It is a simple block of Jenga with a hole drilled in the end. I fitted a small bayonet electrical connector from a set I got from ebay. I bent it a little so I can see what I am doing around the end of the wood block.

It works for me like a fountain pen. Which would have been a great way to do the same thing! If I had one in the house!

I used it to make the Zap symbol on my recharge stations for my Hover Drones. Just make sure the paint on the background is dry before you use it though.

Robot Drones Started. Using Jurassic World Matchbox Die-cast.

Now I spotted these at the same time as the Subs I previously used.

I kept thinking about the figures from Superfigs Old Glory and their round floating robots.
I grabbed a few as again they were only £1 each from my local Entertainer toy shop.

Next I had the dilemma of how to attach any external bits to a sphere which is mainly made of brittle plastic? Also how to base it in a hover/flight way?

I drilled a small hole in the bottom of the brittle plastic. I had to enlarge it slightly with a sharp knife blade. I found the pointed scalpel blade best for this. I took it slowly and test fitted the rod until it just popped through the hole. The rod I used was a cheap ballpoint pen refill. I left the nib on the end of this. Mainly because it gave a fitting just deep enough to be strong when super glued in place.

 Then I had to worry and think of external fixtures. These consisted of: An internal piece of an old VHS cassette. I had enough to do all 3 of the spheres. They do vary from manufacturers. Then an electrical connector part. The type you would use to connect 2 bare wires. I had previously removed the metal interior and |I have blocks of these because the are very cheap and useful. The semi clear white section you can see below. 

 Another problem was getting these fixed to the side of the sphere. I decided to drill a small hole in the softer plastic on the side of the sphere. Then insert a ball headed pin and superglue it. Then I had a mounting to hang the rest of the external fixtures on.

You can just rotate the sphere until the internal chair mount gets out of the way of the drilling and the pin.
Lastly I attached a small LEGO 1x1 flat plate onto the back of what is the camera mount. Just to seal one end of it. I am still thinking if there is anything else I can add. But may just undercoat then paint them as is. But there will probably be more done later. A lens on the camera. More LEGO I think of the clear variety.

I will use these as base patrolling security cameras. Also I will build recharge columns for them.